Le Café Des Fédérations

As our final meal together, Madelaine, Nicola and I decided to visit a "vrai bouchon" and not the sort which can be found in Vieux Lyon: tailored to the tourist.

Now frequent readers, you may recall me coming to Lyon in the summer as part of my inter-railing trip?  In my post about our stay in this marvellous city, I mentioned a restaurant which I described as a "must visit." This statement alone shows just how much I have changed since being here. How wrong I was. Now, having lived here for several months and tested my fair share of restaurants in the city, I realise that it is nothing but a sub-standard eatery existing solely for tourists. Baring this in mind it fulfils its function, but once you've lived here and know the true Bouchon style, I think I'd rather opt for Carrefour brie and baguette in my grotty kitchen than eat there.

Of course, I say this with hindsight six months down the line. I wrote the post before I discovered the wonders of Le Café Des Fédérations. When Mum came to visit in November she told me about a restaurant she'd seen on television that Raymond Blanc had featured on his programme "A Very Hungry Frenchman."  From day 1, Madelaine has said how she'd liked to experience a true Bouchon so we thought it only right to go here.

This is a no frills place. It opens at 8 and if you get there beforehand don't expect to be let in: there's no door handle before they're ready.

Once arriving, you'll be sent to your table by one of the 2 waitresses who are very French in their way of serving: seemingly cold but welcoming all the same. Seat found, an apero is offered which will come with a Lyonnais delicacy of fried pork fat.

The menu is very straightforward and simple.

To Start: Poached egg in a red wine and lardon broth.

This is followed by an assortment of dishes, the majority of which you are bound to find at any Bouchon (though none will be as rustically traditional.) Rosette, Lentils, Lyonnais salad (lardons, egg and croutons) and a wild boar pâté.

For Main: There's a choice. Again, all the dishes are very traditional (which is why its a good idea to ask for the English menu if you're a little unsure.) Choices include veal's head, pork's cheeks, pike Quenelle (a soufflé type dish served with a creamy sauce) or Andouillette (a regional sausage made with most imaginable parts of the pig.)  Having already tried the pork's cheeks and Quenelle, I opted for Poulet au Vinaigre which was much nicer than I expected it to be: tender and flavoursome.

Then came the cheese: a variety of local cheeses such as Saint Marcellan and Cervelle des canuts (which I personally liken to cottage cheese.) The plates start off as in the picture below but are later passed on the following customers with the bits you haven't found room for. See that pot in the middle? That's a mix of all the end bits. Waste not want not!

Dessert: Again, all home-made and all traditional. Options include Babe au Rhum, Fruit salad and Moelleux au chocolat. The three of us decided to take a selection and share. Nicola chose the Tarte à la praline, Madelaine had the fruit salad and I, of course, had the Moelleux au chocolat. The Tarte took the prize for me.

Not surprisingly, we were ready to pop by the end of it. The quality of food was fabulous but as with most places on this side of the channel, the quantity was a little too much. Still, all this only came to €26 per person. A brilliant second night back in Lyon: good food and even better company.

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